ByContainers made from tree bark existed long before plastic bags, cardboard boxes, and canvas haversacks came about. With every trek in the woods, I find useful resources. That glob of pine sap, stones, bones, or wood somehow ends up going home with me (much to the chagrin of Dirt Road Girl).It’s a condition which I wish to never be cured.Scott Jones sums up this affliction with this quote in his book, “The Eskimo say that only a fool comes home empty handed! Lewis Binford, in Looking at Currated Technologies – 1979If you suffer from this same condition, you’ll need a something to transport your found treasures back home or to your camp. While any container will usually work, nothing compares to a handcrafted bark container for both functionality and aesthetics for us out of doors types. Traditional Berry BucketsThe best time to harvest tree bark is when the sap is rising in late spring and early summer.

I know, I meant to post this tutorial in June. You’ll have to wait a few months to skin a tulip tree (( Liriodendron tulipifera ). So bookmark this one for when the sap starts to rise again.Material and Tools. Knife – about all you really need. Ax or saw if you plan to fell a tree. Awl or drill. Cordage.

Tulip Poplar tree. Rim wood. Very few tools are needed for bark containers Find the Right TreeTulip Poplar is a fast growing (soft) hardwood with. Other candidates for bark containers include; basswood, cedar, white birch (which we don’t have in Georgia), and others.You’ll know you’re barking up the tree at the wrong time once you’ve attempted to peel the bark off. If the sap isn’t rising, the bark won’t come off easily. I look for young tulip poplar trees growing under dense canopies. They tend to grow straight with fewer lower limbs and have thinner bark.

A 6 to 7 inch diameter tree is ideal.To fell or not to fell that is the question. I’ve done both.

It is no small project and, as mentioned earlier, it isn’t necessarily cheap. But a survival trailer not only lends itself to a mobile shelter that you can drive and park anywhere, but it also doubles as a mobile survival cache. Survival trailers are like a gigantic Bug Out Bag that you can live in! They streamline any survival plan and offer.

For smaller containers like my knife sheath, I simply cut a patch of bark off the tree.You’d think completely girdling around would doom a tree to death. However, as a test this past spring, I removed a section of bark from the entire circumference of a small tulip tree (5 inches in diameter) and it still has its green leaves in early October. Sweetgum ( Liquidambar styraciflua ) is similarly resilient tree.

Edit: A fellow woodsman commented on the above paragraph who is concerned that people with access to public land only would take my statement as scientific fact and start completely girdling trees. My actions are not scientific and should only be done on land you own. I was totally surprised that the tree is still living after removing bark from the entire circumference. Also, this particular tree was in a thick grove of tulip poplars. Please, only take trees from private land keeping forest management in mind.

Score and SkinScore the bark down to the sapwood with a knife or hatchet. I use a solid stick to strike the back of the blade after a free-hand score mark has been applied to the bark.Once scored, press the tip of your knife into one corner and lift to separate the outer and inner bark from the sapwood. From that point, I use a wedged stick to run along the edge to loosen and lift the bark. With a gap created, you can use your fingers to further separate the bark from the tree. Warning: There are little spikes under the bark which will draw blood. Go slow and be careful bare handed.

Gloves are recommended, but I enjoy the texture and feel of wet sap and bark.If harvesting large quantities from felled trees, I use a wedged stick to separate bark instead of bare hands. When you’re near the point of full separation, you’ll know the bark is free when you hear a distinctive, satisfying snap sound. Cut to LengthPlace the bark flat on a level surface and cut to length. The length of bark should be a bit over double the intended height of your bucket. Trim all edges smooth to create a long rectangle. Bark length should be double that of the intended height of your container Score a FootballWith the outer bark facing up, measure and mark the mid-point of each long side of the rectangle.

Use your knife to score an arch which runs from side to side. Repeat this step to form a football shape on the outer bark.

Be careful to not cut through the inner bark. This layer of bark acts as a hinge when folding the basket sides together. When scoring in my shop, I use a utility knife with a about 1/8 inch of blade.

The size of the “football” determines the opening size at the topTurn the bark over with the inner bark facing up. Place your hand on the middle of the bark and gently pull one long end to a vertical position. Now fold the other side. Your berry bucket is taking shape. Bore Edge HolesUse an awl or drill to bore a line of holes on both edges of the bucket.

The spacing is up to you. I usually leave an inch and half to two inches between holes which are placed about 1/2 to 1 inch from the edge.

The hole diameter should be large enough to accept your cordage/lacing. Stitching the river cane handle into the sides of DRG’s berry bucketNote: As the bark dries, it will shrink and the lacing may need to be re-tightened.Start lacing at the bottom edge near the football cut with the edges joined together. Tie off with a simple overhand knot and run the stitching up the edge. Make a pattern if you like. Secure the lace at the top of both seams. Add a RimCut a flexible stick long enough to form a rim around the top opening of your bucket. I like to use two thin strips of white oak about the size of a hardware store paint stirrer.

Thinned enough, they flex just right and add a little contrast. The rim will prevent the bark from curling in as it dries. A white oak rim to finish off the bucketBore another series of holes along the rim edge. Place the rim wood pieces on the edges and lace them in as you did the sides. Leave enough lacing on both ends to make loops if you plan to add a carry handle made of rope. If you’re using two rim pieces like mine, you’ll need to bore holes in the ends to tie them together to hold the form you want.I made a handle out of river cane for Dirt Road Girl’s berry bucket.

It hangs in the living room with dried flowers as a conversation piece. Looks pretty too! Neck sheath for one of my Mora knivesKeep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,ToddP.S.

– You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and  and over at our.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on Top Prepper Sites! You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below.

Check out all the other value-adding sites while you’re thereThanks for Sharing the Stuff!Copyright © by Survival Sherpa: In light of the recent theft of all my content by a pirate site, my sharing policy has chanced. I do not permit the re-posting of entire articles from my site without express written consent by me. My content on this site may be shared in digital form (200 words or less) for non-commercial use with a link back (without no-follow attribute) to the original article crediting the author. All photos, drawings, and articles are copyrighted by and the property of Survival Sherpa. You are more than welcome to share our photos and articles on social media for educational purposes as long as you link back to the original article/photo with credit to the author.

ByWhen I first discovered this old device, my mind was officially blown at its simplicity. Peter Follansbee makes furniture with 17th century hand tools. His work and research is fascinating! If you search the term “Paring Ladder”, you’ll of this post. You won’t find much else on the internet about this apparatus.While carving a handmade ax handle in my shop with hand tools, my shaving horse and bench vise proved essential for the process.

Lugging my shaving horse to the woods is not something I’d find enjoyable. I modified the paring ladder’s traditional design to meet my need for making wooden stuff at camp.Woodcraft and bushcraft projects hone self-reliance skills and make camping comfortable. For this build, you get to work with sharp objects in a scenic setting, cutting stuff, lashing stuff, and shaving stuff. What’s not to like?Hopefully our video will explain the processHere’s how to build a shaving horse alternative from stuff found in the woods Gather Stuff. Uprights/Rails I used two standing dead cedar saplings; one was about 3 inches in diameter, the other was 2 inches.

Young cedars grow straight. Tulip Poplar (Magnolia) is another straight grower.

Rungs wood for two ladder rungs. The traditional paring ladder has 3 rungs (I don’t know why). Platform a board used as the work surface which supports the working stock. I split and hewed a 5-6 inch diameter dead cedar log which was about 4 foot long. Cordage paracord, tarred bank line, or any strong lashing material. Tools ax, knife, saw, wooden maul, wood wedges, and draw knife.Step #1: Harvest UprightsCut two uprights about 8 foot long with an ax or saw.

Once down, de-limb the rails by cutting from the trunk end of the tree toward the top of the tree. Removing limbs in this fashion prevents the limb from splitting strips of sap wood off the pole.You can save the tops of the saplings for ladder rungs if they are large enough (2+ inches diameter). I used two split staves of cedar from half of the log used to hew my platform board. I’ll explain in a later step.

Step #2: Lash the UprightsWith the rails even and laying side by side, apply a tripod lash about 18 inches (elbow to finger tip) from the top of the poles. Below is our Tripod Lashing tutorial if you need to learn this knot.Once you’re done lashing, spread the uprights to make a “V” at the intersection. Lean the “V” against a tree with the bottom spread wide and about 3 to 4 feet from the base of the tree. Step #3: Attach RungsMeasure down (eyeball it) about a foot below where the poles cross and make a score mark for the location of the first rung.

Use either a square or diagonal lashing to secure the rung to the rails. For assistance.Add a second rung about a foot below the top rung in the same manner as above. This rung will be longer than the top rung since the base of the uprights are spread apart. Step #4: Hew a Platform BoardI had originally planned to bring a 2 x 6 of dimensional lumber to camp for this piece. I was glad I forgot.

This gave me an opportunity to split and hew a 6 inch diameter cedar log (maybe 5′ long) left over from when I built my shelter two years ago.Lay the log to be split on the ground. I like to place long logs in a “Y” branch on the ground when splitting. Start a split in the log with your ax. Continue the split with wooden wedges until the two pieces are separated.

Repeat the process to split off a section of one half log to form a board about 2 inches thick.Of course, my cedar log was twisted and didn’t cooperate when I tried to split off a board. It split into two wedged billets. Not wanting to chance the same fate for the other half log, I hewed the round side down with my ax.A: Save all the wood chips and bark for future fire tinder/kindling.Your platform board should be long enough to fit between the two rungs with the lower end reaching mid-thigh when in place. Your thigh will press down on the board to create the pinching pressure needed to secure stock in the shaving ladder. Step #5: Notch the Platform BoardPlace the platform board between the two rungs. Test the fit and length so that the bottom of the platform board reaches your thigh and about 4 inches extends past the top rung.

Score the bottom of the board where it rests on the second rung. A view from underneathSince my rungs were made of wedged billets, I cut a seven notch which mated very well with the rung. If using round rungs, be sure to carve the notch enough to fit securely.Slip the platform board in place with the notch on top of the second rung. The notch should keep the board from slipping in use.

Step #6: Use Your Shaving LadderLift the bottom of the board on the fulcrum (second rung) and place the wood you want to shave between the board and the top rung. Release the board to rest against the top rung. Pinch the work piece with pressure from your thighPut downward pressure on the platform board with your thigh to pinch the wood against the top rung. Use your draw knife to begin shaving. To turn your work piece, lift the platform to release pressure, turn the wood, and shave some more.To adjust the height of the platform, raise or lower the ladder on the tree. There are more ideas I’d like test with the shaving ladder. I’ll update you when I do.Straight grained green wood is a pleasure to carve on this paring ladder.

I also shaved a piece of seasoned cedar with no problems except for the occasional knot. All sorts of camp crafts can be made using a paring ladder. The paring ladder held a section of seasoned Beech in place with little effortEven in your shop or garage, it won’t take up as much room as a shaving horse. For a shop shaving ladder, I’d actually make the ladder more permanent and designed like the one in Peter’s blog from the first paragraph.If you’ve ever used a paring ladder, I’d really like to hear your ideas and learn some new tricks.Keep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,ToddP.S.

– You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and  and over at the.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on Top Prepper Sites! You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below. Check out all the other value-adding sites while you’re there Thanks for Sharing the Stuff!Copyright: Content on this site (unless the work of a third-party) may be shared freely in digital form, in part or whole, for non-commercial use with a link back to this site crediting the author. All links in articles must remain intact as originally posted in order to be republished. If you are interested a third-party article, please contact the author directly for republishing information. ByDebates happen from time to time over which is more important for self-reliance gear or skills?With our emphasis on developing Doing the Stuff skills here, you probably already know my position.

But, then again, you may be surprised.Here’s my takeBoth skills and gear are essential to self-reliant living! Modern gear is not evil. Neither are primitive tools.Every primitive skills practitioner, prepper, homesteader, and woodsman needs tools. It has something to do with opposable thumbs.

Tools wrapped by skilled thumbs are capable of making gear.For instance, take the modern backpack. They’re constructed with state of the art material and built with internal frames. They’re designed to haul loads comfortably over long distances. My Osprey pack has many convenient pockets, pouches, and bells and whistles.

But what kind of burdens can you carry with modern internal frame packs? Clothing and camping stuff mostly.Here’s the thing thoughTry carrying a load of firewood back to camp or a quartered deer with an internal frame pack. They’re pretty one-dimensional.

Camp Chuck Box strapped to the RoycroftPeople all over the world have been using crude A-frame packs to carry heavy burdens for thousands of years. Otzi The Ice Man used an external frame pack over 5,000 years ago made of a bent sapling.

Though his was not an A-frame style pack, an external frame can carry odd-shaped loads that modern internal frame packs can’t.Let’s get started. You’ll get to use knife skills, knots, and lashings to make your own. Roycraft Pack FrameThe Roycraft pack frame was named (not self-named, btw) after Mors Kochanski’s friend, Tom Roycraft. Mr. Roycraft, a survival instructor in the Canadian military in the 1960’s, used the time-tested idea of using 3 sticks and cordage to teach downed pilots how to construct a pack.

The simple idea was adopted and used successfully.Material List. Three sticks.

Cordage. Cutting toolKnots and Lashing.

Trucker’s Hitch. Bowline. Blood Knot. Clove Hitch. Lark’s HeadStep #1 Harvest Three SticksUpright Poles: Harvest saplings that are straight and thumb-size in diameter. For the uprights, cut two sticks that measure from arm pit to finger tip in length. Stripping the bark from the poles will help preserve the wood but isn’t necessary.Lumbar Pole: This stick should measure from elbow to finger tip.

Try to find a stick that is slightly curved to conform to your belt line. However, a straight stick will work.

Step #2 Lashing UprightsStart by using a tripod lashing on the two uprights. Place the two uprights together with the bottoms even. Begin lashing about three inches from the top of the poles. When done, spread the two apart to form the A-frame.

Lashing at the top of the A-frameCheck out our video tutorial on how to lash a tripod. You’ll only lash two sticks though.Lashing with natural cordage may require a butterfly notch at each intersection. Step #3 Lash the Lumbar PoleEdit – 10/20/15: After publication, Chris Noble, a friend and writer/owner of, noticed something about my frame.

My lumbar pole is to the inside of the frame. By lashing this piece to the outside of the upright poles, a small shelf is created which would offer a ledge for loads like a camping chuck box to rest upon. Thanks for suggesting this Mors Kochanski modification and your attention to detail.Place the lumbar stick on top of the uprights so that the bend is protruding between the two uprights. Make sure you have about an inch and half of overhang at each intersection of the lumbar and uprights. Diagonal lashing holding the lumbar support securely to the uprightThe intersections will not be perpendicular. Use a square lashing or diagonal lashing to secure the lumbar section to the upright poles.

I used a square lash on one and a diagonal on the other just for practice. I’ll have to do a diagonal lashing tutorial soon. Step #4 Attach Loops to FrameLoops of cordage are multifunctional. Besides being handy tie-outs to secure loads on the frame, the loops can be used to set up a tarp shelter. You can.To make quick-release loops, cut six pieces of cordage 18 inches long. Tie a blood knot in each piece of cordage. This knot is easy to untie after being cinched tight. These 6 loops are also used to set up my tarp systemAttach each loop with a larks head knot; one on the lumbar pole, two on one upright, and the remaining three on the other upright.

The larks head knot is easy to adjust on the poles depending on where you want the loops placed. Step #5 Add Shoulder/Belt StrapsCut a piece a rope three double arm-lengths (from outstretched finger tip to your other outstretched finger tip). One of my outstretched double arm-length is about 6 foot – X3 – equals about 18 feet.

I used a piece of 3/8 inch rope from my strap/rope box in my shop which measured about 16 feet.Note: If you use natural rope like hemp or manila, you’ll need to to the cut ends to prevent fraying.Double the rope evenly to form a loop in one end. Thread the loop under the top A-frame intersection from the inside of the frame.

Tie a larks head by inserting the working ends of the rope through the loop. Work the knot tight so that the two loose ends are going through the top of the “V” on the pack frame. Simple lark’s head knotLift the empty pack frame onto your back with the lumbar support at or slightly above belt height with the ropes over each shoulder. Reach back and wrap one rope around the upright and lumbar intersection on the same side of the shoulder strap.

Repeat the process for the other shoulder strap. Pull the pack tight to your back.Now you can secure the remaining rope around your waist as a belt. To make a quick-release waist belt, tie a trucker’s hitch ( at 2:30 mins.) on the belt portion of the rope. Once secured, tuck any remaining rope behind the pack frame.

Step #6 Load the FrameUse your shelter system (tarp, poncho, or other waterproof cover) as the shell. Lay the frame on the ground with the outside facing up.

Make sure the loops are to the outside of the frame for easy access.Place the tarp on top of the frame. Here’s the key to packing a comfortable Roycraft frame. Trucker’s Hitch – aka: Hillbilly Come-Along Step #7 Mount the PackFor a light load, stand behind the upright frame on the ground with the shoulder straps in each hand. Lift the pack up and around your body so that the shoulder straps are in place.

Secure the bottom two corners as described in Step #5 above. Tie off the belt securely.You’ll notice that the rope will dig into your shoulder and trapezium muscles. To distribute the load, slide a thin piece of wood under each rope to bridge the gap between your pectoral muscles and shoulders.

Prepare these pieces before you lift the pack on your back. All I need for a weekend in the woodsI’m planning to modify my Roycroft frame with padded shoulder straps from an old ALICE pack to be my go-to backpack. I’ll be able to carry the large stones my rock-loving Dirt Road Girl picks out for her yard collection.

Yep, I’m her beast of burden!If you’ve ever built and used a Roycraft pack frame, we’re always interested in learning new tips and tricks to make ours better. Share your knowledge in the comment section or social media.Keep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,ToddP.S. – You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and  and over at the.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on Top Prepper Sites!

You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below. Check out all the other value-adding sites while you’re there Thanks for Sharing the Stuff!Copyright: Content on this site (unless the work of a third-party) may be shared freely in digital form, in part or whole, for non-commercial use with a link back to this site crediting the author. All links in articles must remain intact as originally posted in order to be republished. If you are interested a third-party article, please contact the author directly for republishing information.

ByFull credit for this hack goes to our Georgia humidity, a buddy of mine, and my fondness for fire.Trading theory for action is the only way to prove for yourself if something you’ve read or watched will work in real-life. For instance, will dry mullein (Torch Plant) leaves ignite with a ferro rod. I tested the theory and found that they smolder when 3,000 degree sparks landed on their dry surface.

Dry is a relative term in Georgia humidity.Noticing the properties of the once velvety leaves and their ability to hold an ember, an idea lit in my mind. I stripped the dry leafy portion off to expose the pinnate vein.

The main vein became pliable with a light coat of coconut oil and absorbed the fuel like dry sponge.Bingo!I’ve made mullein torches with my grandson before. Mullein torch in the backyardSoaking the dry seed head in oil, resin, or wax makes a great tiki-type torch for night-time illumination. Hence the name Torch Plant.

But burning a mullein torch inside a shelter or tent is not advisable. You’ll need a safe, controlled source of light.HummmmmCould the Torch Plant leaf serve as a slush lamp wick?Yup!Remember to never leave an open flame unattended. How to Make Your Own Slush LampHere’s the stuff you’ll need. Small container – Altoids tin, sea shell, aluminum foil, etc.

– more container ideas below. Fuel – coconut oil, olive oil, cooking oil, rendered animal fat.

Mullein leaf(s). Beer bottle cap (optional)Step 1: The WickCommon Mullein ( Verbascum thapsus) has many practical uses for self-reliance. Other natural fibrous plants can be used as well. However, with mullein, you won’t have to twist any fibers into cordage. Simply remove the dry leafy portion from the vein and saturate the wick in oil. Brilliant!Thanks to Terrapin Beer Co.

And Richard’s brilliant idea, my slush lamp took on a new form of awesome! Step 2: FuelI used. It liquefies once it touches your skin (melting point is 76º F). Apply a generous coat to the leaf vein. Add 1/4 inch of oil to your container.Place the looped wick in the container with the tip above the oil level.

Lean the wick over the outside edge of the container if additional support is needed and there are no bottle caps available.WARNING: Seems like common sense but I need to add this disclosure. Do not use flammable liquid like white gas or gasoline. It will explode and ruin your day!

If this does not compute, take up another hobby. Step 3: ContainerAn Altoids tin works fine for this application. Unlike olive or vegetable oils, coconut oil solidifies in colder weather preventing it from leaking all over your pack while on the move.Simple makeshift containers can be found in nature or crafted from supplies in your pack. Ideas include:. Aluminum foil. Rocks with an indention.

Wood with knot holes. Dehydrated food pouches. Large leafs from sycamore trees laid in a small indention in the ground.

Duct tape fashioned into a bowl yep, a crazy amount of uses for this stuff!Wicks can be added to the long list of uses for this plant. Over a thirty minute test, I had to adjust the hight of the wicks a couple of times. Steel ocean 2019. Other than those few tweaks, the slush lamp provided a steady, reliable source of light. Torch Plant and Fire CraftMullein is my most dependable spindle material for friction fire via the hand drill.

Below is a picture of two pieces of mullein stalk lashed together to form a hearth board. My old faithful mullein spindle, cracks and all, created a coal in the crevice between the two-stick hearth board. Mullein on mullein hand drill coalThe take away from this tutorial is to stay curious and observant as you practice self-reliance skills. You never know what you’ll discover!Hope this helps if you ever need an emergency source of lighting.What other natural plant material have you used for slush lamp wicks?Keep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,ToddP.S. – You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and  and over at the.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on Top Prepper Sites! You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below. Check out all the other value-adding sites while you’re there Thanks for Sharing the Stuff!Copyright: Content on this site (unless the work of a third-party) may be shared freely in digital form, in part or whole, for non-commercial use with a link back to this site crediting the author.

All links in articles must remain intact as originally posted in order to be republished. If you are interested a third-party article, please contact the author directly for republishing information. ByThe Tulip Poplar is the Swiss Army Knife of woodcraft and self-reliance.

The uses. Primitive fire – bow drill sets and tinder material. Inner bark for natural cordage. Spoons, bowls, cups, and tools. Medicinal uses. Material and building uses which we employ todayThe best time to harvest the bark is late spring and early summer when the sap is rising.Obviously, you don’t want to cut down the only tulip tree in the forest.

I scout my woods to find an overcrowded stand of poplars and harvest one out of 3 or 4 which are close together. The rest of the tree doesn’t go to waste. What’s not used for containers is used for natural cordage, tinder material, spoons and bowls, and primitive fire sets.Trees under 6 inches in diameter are felled with my. I use an ax for trees over 6 inches. Need felled a tree? To learn how. Arrow QuiverThe entire process can be done in the woods.

Or, do as I did cut the log into 6 foot lengths and haul it to the vehicle for transport home. Actually, I did part of the project in the woods and finished up at my shop.Below are a few tools used to make my quiver. The whole sleeve removed. The bucksaw is 21 inches long.With your knife, cut a straight line from both ring cuts down the length of the log all the way to the sap wood.

Be sure to cut through the outer and inner bark.Work your knife or a wedged stick under one edge where the parallel cut meets the ring cut and begin gently prying the bark free from the sap wood.Take it easy. Going too fast will cause the bark to crack and ruin your resource.

You’re not cutting the bark loose as you might skin a big game animal. The knife is a pry bar now.

Free the bark about an inch or so on both edges of the center cut.Wedge your fingers between the freed bark edge and the sap wood and slowly begin separating the bark. Work your way around the entire log from the center cut. Be careful not to prick your finger on any small prickly points on the sap wood.Once disconnected from the sap wood, the flexible bark sleeve can be removed. Now your ready to make lacing holes along both sides of the center cut.

Bore HolesNow that the bark is off the tree, slip it back on. The log will be used as an anvil for boring lacing holes along both sides of the center cut. You don’t have to use the log as an anvil but it’s a bit more convenient to do so. A wheel punch used in leather work is another option for making holes in bark. Stitching holes bored into both sides of the parallel cutWith a bone awl or modern awl, bore a line of holes about 1/2 inch from the edge of both center cuts.

I spaced my row of holes about 1.5 inches apart – starting at about 1 inch from each end. Try to keep the holes matched up on both sides of the center cut. LacingRawhide, natural cordage, or synthetic string are all options.

Your choice depends on what’s available and how primitive you want your quiver to look. Tarred bank line is a down and dirty option that will work forever.I used artificial sinew and leather work needles to stitch the seam in a ‘X’ pattern. Measure and use about 4 times the length of the quiver in cordage. This allows enough leftover cordage to attach a carrying sling when the stitching is done. Plug EndCut a 1/2 to 3/4 inch section of wood off the log to be used as a plug for the quiver. The plug cut should come from where you made your ring cut.Once the seam is laced (loosely), insert the plug into the end of your quiver.

Tighten the lacing. Stand the quiver vertically and tap the plug end on a flat surface to ensure a flush fit. The lacing will hold the plug via friction but needs a more secure method.I used about 8 small nails spaced around the plug end. Drill evenly spaced pilot holes which are slightly smaller than the diameter of your nails/tacks. Hammer the nails into the pilot holes to secure.As the bark dries, it curls in on itself. The plug prevents this on the bottom end. However, on the open end, stuff some newspaper, bubble wrap, or other material a few inches down tube to hold the cylindrical shape as it dries.

The drying time takes a few days to a week depending on weather conditions. Shoulder SlingYou should have the long tag ends of cordage leftover at the plug end. I laid a two foot length of leather thong evenly between my two tag ends of cordage. Secure the thong to the quiver with a simple square knot (right over left, left over right). This sling is similar to the hands-free ax sling I made only more narrowI did the same thing at the opposite end and attached a piece of scrap leather (25 inches long) to the thongs.

The thongs allow me to adjust the length of my quiver much like the sling I made for my.You may also want to add a strip of fur on the inside rim to prevent arrows from banging against the bark quiver when walking the woods. It also adds a great primitive touch to your functional work of art!This Tulip Tree will provide enough bark for more containers and other resources of self-reliance. Here’s a bonus berry basket made from another 22 inch section of bark.

A berry basket for Dirt Road GirlKeep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,ToddP.S. – You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and our  and over at the on, and.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on Top Prepper Sites! You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below. Check out all the other value-adding sites while you’re thereThanks for Sharing the Stuff!Copyright: Content on this site (unless the work of a third-party) may be shared freely in digital form, in part or whole, for non-commercial use with a link back to this site crediting the author. All links in articles must remain intact as originally posted in order to be republished.

If you are interested a third-party article, please contact the author directly for republishing information. By“One of the hallmarks of the veteran woodsman is the way he contrives to make himself comfortable in camp”. Miller, 1915 (Quote found at )I’ve spent almost two years at my semi-permanent shelter sawing wood on a stump braced by my knee or under my knee in a plumbers vise. My goal this year is to add more camp comforts to my shelter. The I made recently is handy for certain tasks but is just down the slope from my base camp. But a sawbuck situated near my shelter would help increase my productivity and decrease wear and tear on my back and knees.Though I built a, what I needed for my shelter in the woods had to be of natural material collected from the landscape to blend with the landscape. Remember this old Beech tree?

She’s been very good to me!!Plus, my body was in need of a good. Believe me, after sawing a 12″ Beech limb with a bucksaw with only 8 inches of cut clearance, hauling it back to camp, I got my functional fitness in for the day! Tools and Material. Base: A large hardwood log – 12 inches or more in diameter by 36 to 48 inches long.

Or take advantage of a fallen tree near you site and use it without sawing or bucking a base log. Skids: Two skid logs about 12 to 18 inches long – the diameter depends on the height needed for your sawbuck. With a large enough diameter log, skids won’t be needed. X Posts: Four 5 to 6 foot hardwood poles used to form two X’s over the base.

Cordage: Enough cordage to tie two square lashings on the X’s members. 1/4 inch sisal rope was used on this project. Cutting Tools: Bucksaw, crosscut saw, or chain saw to cut the base log. An ax – cause you never need to be in the woods without one.

Knife – see previous sentence. Has an 8 inch cut clearance which made cutting the base log very challenging and rewarding to know it can do the stuff.

Water: Stay hydratedConstructionTo slow down the rotting process and elevate the Base as needed, lay the round base on top of two skid logs. I notched a slight “saddle” in the skid logs but I tend to over-engineer stuff. Notching is optional. The skids are used to elevate a smaller diameter base log (10 to 12 inch diameter range) to desired height.Once the base is situated on flat ground, sharpen the ends of your X posts with your ax. Drive one post into the ground with your ax or heavy maul at a point 4-5 inches from the end of the base log.

Now drive another X post into the ground on the opposite side of the base. Try to keep the X posts touching the base log and each other as much as possible.

They may separate from each other during the driving process. The lashing will draw them together.Safety Tip: If using an ax to drive posts, be sure to keep it sheathed while you hammer the posts with the poll of the ax. By the time your hammering posts, you’ll likely be a little fatigued from sawing and hauling wood. If so, take a break and recoup before swinging an ax like a sledge-hammer.After pounding your 4 X posts into the ground, lash the post intersections with cordage. The X posts should be touching the base log as this contact gives the sawbuck stability under a load.Here’s a if you need to learn this knot.The height of your sawbuck depends upon the angle of your X posts. For instance, decrease the interior angle to raise the platform and visa versa. The X posts are not adjustable once in the ground so determine the working height needed before driving the second post of each X brace.Once the X posts are secured in the ground and lashed, cut the tops of the posts to an even length.

Now your ready to saw firewood or make camp furniture on a sturdy platform.I originally thought I’d need to lash a cross brace between the two X posts as a sway bar. This idea proved unnecessary. The sawbuck held a poplar log 6 inches in diameter by 7 feet long without wobble as I sawed a length off the log.Check out our video tutorial below:Additional Resources:. To split long logs into rails for this project,.By the way, the sawbuck makes an additional camp seat. You’ll probably need one after hauling logs!Keep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,ToddP.S. – You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and our  and over at the on, and.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on Top Prepper Sites! You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below.

Check out all the other value-adding sites while you’re thereThanks for Sharing the Stuff!Copyright: Content on this site (unless the work of a third-party) may be shared freely in digital form, in part or whole, for non-commercial use with a link back to this site crediting the author. All links in articles must remain intact as originally posted in order to be republished. If you are interested a third-party article, please contact the author directly for republishing information. ByUtilize your and make your own stuff. At the end of the day, your ingenuity will be rewarded with one-of-a-kind handcrafted items that will cause your haversack to swell with pride.Turning your bushcraft buddies green with envy isn’t the goal, but you gotta admit, munching on pemmican you made while applying your diy fixin’ wax to your ax handle around the campfire is not only personally satisfying – but a open-source learning session.Here’s 14 I’ve put together for you. What’s your best diy wilderness project? Adds an extra container to your kitTrading theory for action by practicing Doing the Stuff skills for self-reliance is how we roll.

So find your spot around the fire and share your best DiY bushcraft projects the comment section is open!Keep Doing the Stuff,ToddP.S. – You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on, and our  and over on the on, and.P.P.S – If you find value in our blog, Dirt Road Girl and I would appreciate your vote on the Top Prepper Sites!

You can vote daily by clicking or on the image below. Check out all the other value-adding Prepper sites while you’re thereThanks for sharing the stuff!Copyright Information: Content on this site (unless the work of a third-party) may be shared freely in digital form, in part or whole, for non-commercial use with a link back to this site crediting the author. All links in articles must remain intact as originally posted in order to be republished. If you are interested a rare third-party article, please contact the author directly for republishing information.

Performing a quick Google search for “DIY Survival Gear” yields 2,030,000 results (and counting).

That means there’s a mind-boggling number of DIY Survival Gear ideas at your fingertips anytime, nearly anywhere.

However, only a few of these results are both interesting and useful.

The vast majority are less than impressive.

Not to mention the ones that belong in the trash heap.

The point I’m making here is that there are thousands of DIY survival gear sites, guides, survival hacks, and articles you could sort through.

And that’s before even mentioning YouTube….

So with that said, my purpose for this article is to wade through all the B.S. DIY survival gear ideas and hone in on a few of the best. 11 of the best to be exact.

But before we get started, what makes a DIY survival gear project one of the best and worth our time?

I considered a DIY survival gear project one of the best if:

1. It creates gear and tools that are desirable in most survival situations.
2. It can be accomplished with a basic set of tools.
3. It can be completed in less than a day (assuming you have the material needed at hand).
4. I was able to find a comprehensive step by step video instruction that shows you exactly how to do it.

With those criteria in mind, here are Skilled Survival’s favorite DIY survival gear projects that can be made by the average Joe, quickly, at home, and without an insane amount of technical knowledge.

• DIY Fire Starter
• DIY Water Filter
• DIY Rocket Stove
• DIY Cordage (from a 2-liter soda bottle)
• DIY Survival Slingshot
• DIY Cigar Tube Fishing Kit
• DIY Survival Knife
• DIY Bow and Arrow
• DIY Survival Spear
• DIY Solar Battery Charger (for phone or USB)
• DIY Ranger Band

As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Survival Gear Checklist.Click Here To Get Your FREE Copy Of It.

1 – DIY Fire Starter

There are lots of ways to start a fire, right? But we all know some better than others.

Fire starting can be accomplished with something as simple as a BIC lighter and a wad of paper or as challenging as using sticks and friction.

I sorted through a bunch of different fire starting gear ideas and options, and in my opinion, the easiest to make, to store, and to use is this one:

With this DIY survival project, you can make fire starting a breeze. It’s a DIY survival gear idea that is both simple, and nearly foolproof.

Bottom line: All you need is a jar of petroleum jelly, some cotton balls, and a ziplock baggie; that’s it.

Just put the petroleum jelly inside the baggie, add some cotton balls, gently rub the balls around so they get a coating of the petroleum on them.

Make sure not to over saturate them, or they’ll get difficult to light. Just coat them with a dab and you’re done!

Roll the baggie up, zip the top, and put it in your bug out bag, backpack, glove box, or anywhere where you can find them quickly when the need arises.

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Sure…this one seems too easy when compared to the more elaborate DIY fire starting setups. However, complicated is rarely a virtue when it comes to survival.

Instead, simple yet effective is what you want, and this one works in all sorts of conditions: cold, hot, wet, dry. It doesn’t get much simpler than that. So give it a try.

2 – DIY Water Filter

There are tons of ready-made water filters available for purchase, and you should own one.

But if you don’t have one yet, can’t afford one, or lost yours, you still need safe drinking water. So it’s a good investment to learn how to make one using only a few basic readily-available materials.

I researched many elaborate DIY survival water filter setups. Most were pretty decent, and it was tough to decide on just one. So I settled on this simple design because I was certain I could make it myself in the wilderness.

Again, you may be thinking this DIY survival gear setup is overly simplistic but in my opinion, that’s the point. Complex gear can break, fail, and leave you helpless.

Simple gear just works and saves lives.

3 – DIY Rocket Stove

There are so many unique rocket stove setups that it’s impossible for me to describe even a portion of them. To prove this point, a YouTube search will reveal 144,000 videos on the topic.

So here’s the good news, I’m going to save you the trouble and hours sifting through all these videos. Helping you avoid the unnecessary rubbish and showing you just the hidden gems.

Trust me when I say that the rocket stove setups I watched run from the ridiculous to the sublime.

In its fundamental design, a rocket stove has a combustion chamber, an air intake, and a chimney (or flue) to vent the exhaust.

They can be made from many different types of containers. Empty cans, 55-gallon drums, cinder blocks all have been used to create a rocket stove.

I once found an old, rusty oil drum and modified into a stove. I found it in an old log grain storage building on my ranch.

Even though it looked like it was a hundred years old, it still was perfect for this DIY survival gear project. Since having a stove is an essential survival tool for cooking and heating, you would be smart to make your own too.

There were so many how-to videos to choose from, but I finally settled on this one. The basic concepts are all the same so feel free to get creative after you watch:

I really like the way this guy explains everything and kept it simple. It’s not as light and portable as I prefer, but it’s still a solid design.

4 – Cordage From A 2 Liter Soda Bottle

I don’t know about you, but in my life having paracord, rope, baling twine, and an assortment of old lead ropes is a necessity. I live on a small ranch, and I use the aforementioned types of cordage for all sorts of useful tasks.

Tying water hoses to fence rails, impromptu horse bridles, tying loose tractor hydraulic hoses, the list is long and varied. In any DIY survival gear scenario having some type of cordage is essential, and a “no-brainer”.

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You’ll need it, but if you don’t have any, you can make your own.

I’ve seen and read hundreds of videos and articles that show how to make cordage from natural plant fibers, straw, hay, grasses, etc. They are all okay, and some are pretty darn good assuming you can find the right natural materials.

But one unnatural material that you can typically find just about anywhere is plastic bottles. So when I discovered making cordage from a plastic 2 Liter Soda Bottle, I was thrilled.

Littering is terrible (don’t do it!), and I don’t like it, but I’ll take advantage of it and use it for my survival.

If you’re like me, you probably have more of these empty bottles lying around than you care to admit.

That’s why I think this guy’s idea is great. So I did a quick little test using my pocket knife, and the plastic cordage is both flexible and strong.

Try it out, it’s useful and just as important, it’s easy.

As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Survival Gear Checklist.Click Here To Get Your FREE Copy Of It.

5 – DIY Survival Slingshot

Ok, this one is more of a modification than a build from scratch but it’s badass. If you ever had a slingshot as a kid, this project will resonate with you. You can carve your own handle, or just modify an existing one.

This example claims to be capable of bringing down “big game” animals. It shoots arrows and is designed on a “wrist rocket” platform.

The mods are easy and inexpensive, and the video is well made.

No matter how many firearms you may or may not have, the slingshot is an easy to make and incredibly useful survival weapon to have.

Besides the video I linked to, there are a lot of other good slingshot ideas on YouTube. Whether you use it for hunting, or perhaps self-defense, a slingshot is an inexpensive, simple, foolproof weapon.

6 – DIY Cigar Tube Fishing Kit

Easy to make, use, and small this is one DIY survival gear that everyone should have in their survival stash.

If you smoke cigars that come in tubes, you already have the main part of the tool. If you don’t smoke cigars, you could still just buy one, give the cigar away and keep the tube.

If you still don’t like that, you can substitute a piece of wooden dowel about 6 inches long.

Now just take some fishing line of your choice, wrap a couple of hundred feet at most, around the tube and tape it. Use the inside of the tube for hooks, sinkers, flies, whatever. If you use the dowel, wrap up your accessories in a separate little bag.

There are lots of possibilities here and many variations on the same underlying theme.

For instance, I have an old Cohiba tube, from a Havana that I used for this project. It adds a cool factor to my little DIY survival kit. Even though I don’t smoke cigars anymore it still smells faintly of Cuban tobacco.

Unfortunately, I was unable to find any videos that used a cigar tube, but I did find one that shows how to make a “Hobo Fishing Kit”, and it’s the same idea.

Just using a protein drink cylindrical bottle instead of a cigar tube.

7 – DIY Survival Knife

Knifemaking is an art and an ancient one at that.

But even if you lack that particular skill set, you can still make yourself a basic version that will cut and stab. You can make it with just a hacksaw or a Sawzall blade.

You’ll also need some paracord to wrap the handle. And of course, you’ll need either a metal file or a grinder.

By grinding, filing and beveling the edge, you will end up with a simple blade. Not the tough one ever, but one that can still be useful in a survival scenario.

I watched a lot of videos that were pretty advanced in the knife making skills department but I decided to share one that is more “homespun”. It doesn’t have a lot of bells and whistles, but it’s easy to make, especially if you have a grinder.

Also, this method is easy on the wallet.

8 – DIY Bow and Arrow

Even though my archery experience is limited to shooting at hay bales, missing them completely, and punching holes in the wall of our barn, a bow and arrow is a deadly weapon. Not only that but a wooden longbow possible to make yourself.

As with all my selections in this article, I searched my faithful YouTube lists until I found a few I thought worthy of presenting to you, my readers. Well, it was sort of a difficult choice between hand-hewn, sustainably harvested, tree limbs and store-bought PVC pipes and fiberglass rods.

Though the Grizzly Adams approach appeals to my inner frontiersman, I’m a city slicker at heart, so it’s the plastic and fiberglass project for now.

The guy in the video I’m linking to is good on camera, knows what he’s talking about, and if you follow his directions, you’ll have yourself a pretty awesome DIY survival bow and arrow kit.

9 – DIY Survival Spear/ Walking Stick

Easy to build, with readily available materials, the spear has a long history. With this simple but effective weapon, Paleolithic hunters harvested mastodons and fought off saber-tooth cats.

Roman legions used them against their enemies too. They were modified into the pike too, which is a spear with an extra-long shaft.

Anyway, before I get carried away with historical rants, I’ve found some very good videos that will show you how to make a spear with a removable point.

The shaft is a broom handle essentially. The blade is a Cold Steel knife, which has a hollow, tapered handle that allows it to be mounted on a shaft.

Of course, you can also go primitive and cut your own shaft, mount a DIY survival knife, like the one I described earlier in this article.

The video I’ve selected uses the Cold Steel blade, and I think it’s the best one. I think you’ll agree.

10 – DIY Solar Battery/ USB Charger

A small portable solar charger is a useful gadget to have. I doubt I need to explain why you should have one of these, so I won’t insult your intelligence.

The most difficult skill you need to pull this off is to use a soldering gun. You’ll also need to locate all the parts. However, you may be able to scavenge them from stuff you may already have in your garage.

I watched a bunch of videos on this subject to see how hard it would be for a guy like myself to build.

I built a Heathkit radio when I was a kid and swapped out the pickups on my first electric guitar when Jimi Hendrix was still alive.

So for what it’s worth, it means that this is a pretty straightforward project for most preppers and DIY’ers.

As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Survival Gear Checklist.Click Here To Get Your FREE Copy Of It.

11 – DIY Ranger Bands

I have a lot of old bicycle tubes.

I used to look at them all piled into an old cardboard box, gathering dust and bird poop, and being the kind of guy who never, ever throws anything away, I’d tell myself there must be a use for these things.

I never actually found one until I learned about Ranger Bands. A Ranger Band is a cross-section piece of an inner tube. Usually from a bicycle.

Assuming the rubber isn’t rotted, and still has some stretch, you’ll have the raw material to make Ranger Bands.

The unfinished swan game online. Ranger bands are a badass DIY survival gear project anyone can do in minutes.

DIY Survival Gear – Wrap Up Remarks

I know there are more DIY survival projects out there. I’ve only scratched the surface here, but I hope you found these DIY survival gear 11 projects simple, useful, interesting, and enjoyable.

They were the best ones I found after sifting through hundreds of potential videos to share.

However, that doesn’t mean I was able to watch them all and I’m sure I missed some great ones. So if you know of any I missed that you think should have made the list, please share it with the SkilledSurvival audience in the comments below.

As A Way To Introduce You To Skilled Survival, We're Giving Away Our Ultimate Survival Gear Checklist.Click Here To Get Your FREE Copy Of It.

Jonathan Hands

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